I woke at about 7.30am, and popped down to the kitchen to find a pile of beautifully clean, dry washing waiting there for me :-) I'd decided against breakfast in the restaurant, as that always seemed to result in a late start, but nonetheless it was still 9am by the time I got away. I'd had a leisurely time in my room, choosing from a range of clean clothing, re-packing my newly clean and dry kit, patching my blisters with Compeed dressings and sipping coffee whilst watching Olympic highlights on the television.
There was rain about when I first emerged from the door, but after about 10 minutes' walking my feet hardly hurt at all, and it felt great to be making my way back up to the higher part of the path.
The rain amounted to no more than a thick mist with intermittent sprinkly showers for the first hour or so, but after that it began to fall steadily, and eventually it was necessary for me to stop to put on waterproof pants as well as jacket. I was sorry to have left my shorts behind, but I felt warmer for the change.
The going was difficult underfoot all day, on one of those stony paths that demand constant concentration in order to avoid a broken ankle. Later on I passed some impressive limestone scenery...
... as well as Sell Gill Holes, described in the Guide Book as a "famous mecca for potholers".
At or about Old Ing I encountered what was just about the most disgustingly muddy quagmire in the whole walk, and it took me ages to manage to find a way through without getting mud pouring over the top of my boots...
Near the Ling Gill Nature Reserve 4 trail bikes came flying fast towards me out of light mist and round a bend in the path, and I was concerned that they mightn't see me there at the side, but it was ok, and the nature reserve was beautiful and unspoiled.
On the way up Cam Fell I stopped for shelter, coffee and a cheese and onion pastie in the lee of a wall. I didn't stay long, and would really have liked to stay longer, but the wind was blowing, the rain was wet and the wall didn't provide any real shelter, or a dry place to sit down.
As the path climbed as the day went on, a staggeringly beautiful valley opened up to the left, far below. The wind had got up so fast that on a number of occasions it almost blew me right over, but the experience was absolutely exhilarating. I watched birds playing in the updrafts, and black cows looking like black cats grazing on the hillside far below. It was beautiful :-)
Eventually the path descended into Gayle, the large village that comes just before Hawes. Because I'd not checked my Guide Book properly I initially thought Gayle was Hawes...
...but it wasn't, and soon enough - about 4pm - I was there.
On arrival in Hawes I was completely taken aback by the melee of people crowding about, and blocking the narrow streets. I'd hoped to get to Hawes in time to visit the Museum of Dales Life and the Wensleydale cheese factory, but first I was keen to get to the campsite and put up my tent. When I rang the place I'd intended to stay, though, it turned out to be way out of town, and enquiries revealed there were no showers. I'd learned what that meant by this stage in the walk, so I turned back into Hawes to see if I could get advice on a nearer and better campsite.
Happily, the proprietor of a little arts shop just on the right over the bridge was enormously helpful, and pointed me in the direction of Bainbridge Ings Caravan and Camp Site a short half mile walk out of town. That turned out to be my favourite campsite on the whole of the route: friendly owners; flat, midge free field to pitch the tent; a breeze in the morning to keep the tent dry for packing, and fantastically clean and impressive facilities, including hot showers, lots of loos and a drying room with washing machine and tumble dryer. All this cost only £3. Very highly recommended!
I put up the tent and then lay around on the Thermarest for a while, listening to the wind. It was still incredibly strong, even down in the valley. I know my Akto is a very stable little tent, but even so I wondered whether it would be able to withstand the attack. 20 minutes later it had shown no sign of moving, though, and I began to relax.
I got a quick shower, and then made my way back into Hawes for dinner. I'd expected to find lots of places to eat, but I'd not taken account of the fact that this was a Bank Holiday weekend, and the place was packed. Eventually I ate at the Wensleydale Pantry, an unusual restaurant with a very large capacity and a canteen-style feel to it. The surroundings were unsophisticated, but the food was good. (I had breaded mushrooms, and then cheese and broccoli bake with chips. Yum! I thought about jam roly poly as well, but managed to resist.) It sounded from the chat between the staff and the customers as though a lot of local people were there, which is generally a good sign, in my experience.
After dinner I returned to the campsite via a shop where I bought 3 packets of crips... tut, tut again... and re-patched the edges of my blister dressings. I was quite impressed with how professional a job I'd done, and so I took a piccy.
Boots' zinc oxide tape certainly hides a multitude of sins :-)
I read in the tent for a while, but not long afterwards I put out my torch and lay down to wait for sleep. It was hard to believe that I'd completed the first day of my second week! Not long to go now until the half way point :-)
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