I woke up at 0610 to more heavy rain, after another uncomfortable night in the tent. I remembered that we'd arranged to have breakfast inside at 0800, though, so relaxed and turned over to think about the day to come.
Breakfast was delicious - scrambled eggs, mushrooms and tomato, with tea and toast - and very civilised, and by 0840 all 4 of us - Darren, the Dutch couple and me - were travelling back to Standedge in the car. Mr Fussey told us that the scenes on the moor from "An American Werewolf in London" had been filmed nearby, and in the swirling mist and light drizzle that we encountered back at the trail that wasn't at all difficult to imagine. Chillingly, he also told us that the moors around Wessenden Reservoir were the area where Myra Hindley and Ian Brady had buried their victims. I was glad I hadn't realised that as I walked over on my own through the storm, the evening before.
Darren and I set off together, and walked along one behind the other for an hour or so. There was an interesting moment when I suddenly fell head over heels onto the floor, and found myself pinned to the ground on my back by my rucksack. Nothing felt broken, though, and fortunately Darren was able to yank me back onto my feet, although it did take him several tries :-)In time the mist cleared and the rain began to die away, and I stopped for a mug of tea at the snack-van in a layby next to the A672. There were some friendly truck drivers there, and we chatted for 15 minutes or so before I set off again to cross the M62. One of the things I enjoy most about doing a walk like this is the opportunity to stop and chat with people I'd never otherwise meet: it's striking how genuinely warm and friendly most people actually are, if approached in a friendly manner.
At Robin Hood's Bed near Blackstone Edge I stopped for a rest, and managed to work out how to set the timer on my camera :-) As I was lounging around Darren arrived, and we walked together to the White House Inn on the A58. We stopped on the way to admire the view from Blackstone Edge, and another walker took our picture.
By the time we got to the pub the rain had gone off again, but the the prospect of a dry seat and a drink was very welcome. I was planning a B and B in Hebden Bridge, and so I got out my phone and organised a room at the White Lion. Darren ordered some soup but I had my cheese and onion pastie to look forward to, so after a brief stop we pressed on again. The rain had begun again and by now we were both tired, but Darren's legs held out better than mine and he gradually left me behind as we put our heads down and headed along the sides of Blackstone Edge, White Holme and Warland reservoirs. By the time I caught up I was desperate for something to eat, so I said I'd shelter in the lee of the wall and see Darren later.
My squashed and slightly congealed pastie tasted absolutely wonderful in the rain with a cup of coffee, and as I was eating it another walker arrived and sat down. This was Ian, who said he'd just decided to do a few days' walking on the spur of the moment. When I'd finished my pastie we walked together towards Hebden Bridge via Stoodley Pike Monument. From there we looked down towards Hebden Bridge...
...but it took us quite a while to get down to the A646 into town. I was a little worried to find that my left foot was aching a bit as I went on, and I wondered whether perhaps I'd hurt it a bit in falling over earlier in the day.
I'd been planning to walk into Hebden Bridge along the canal towpath, but that plan was made several weeks earlier, before I realised how sore my feet would be at that stage in the day. As we descended towards the road I began to consider the possiblity of divine intervention, and promised to adopt religion if God would just provide a bus stop at the bottom. Lo and behold, a bus stop was waiting for me when I got down! Ian continued to Badger Field's Farm, where he was staying, and I settled down to wait for the bus :-)
I had a great evening in Hebden Bridge, which was just as interesting a place as the books had suggested it would be. The White Lion was very friendly, and in the large, warm room they gave me I was able to wash and dry almost all of my clothes whilst watching Kellie Holmes in the heats of the 1500 metres (at the Athens Olympics) and drinking a gin and tonic in the bath :-) I then had a delicious meal at Nelson's Wine Bar - halloumi panini with corriander pesto, and sticky toffee pudding - and two glasses of a delectable Merlot. On the way back to the White Lion it turned out that I was still hungry, and I nipped into an off-licence to buy 3 packets of crisps (tut tut) and a pint of milk for coffee.
The bed was so warm and comfortable, in contrast with my last two nights in the tent, that it distracted me, and so I didn't actually manage to sleep very well. Other than that, though, it was a magnificent evening and night.
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